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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.